Next: The Missing States Tour

Our two trips have covered 39 states. We have missed Ohio, West Virginia, Delaware, Rhode Island, Minnesota, Wisconsin, North Dakota, Kansas and Oklahoma. (Burgma and I have been through Ohio & West Virginia on other trips but C-Zookie was not with us.) Next summer we hope to finish out the lower 48 states. Along the way we plan to visit some friends and family and to attend the Lake George Motorcycle Rally. Here is a preliminary itinerary:




It covers the missing 9 states and adds another Canadian Province (Manitoba).

EPILOGUE: What We Learned

We have been finished long enough for all the caffeine and adrenaline to wash out of our systems, and to reflect back on the experience and what we learned. It will take some time to sort it all out. As time and reflection bring the picture into focus, I hope to continue editing this work.

In the meantime we know this:
1) If you take one-half as much stuff as you want to bring, you will still have twice as much as you need.

2) There is more than one right way to get there.

3) You will learn something new everywhere you go, and if you ask nicely people are mostly very helpful.

4) This is a big, beautiful country.

5) Balance the destination and the ride.

6) If you are lucky, the toll gate arm is made of foam and designed to break-way.

We haven't counted all the gasoline stations we visited, but I hope to some day. (I have pictures of all but the two I inadvertently failed to snap.) In one sense they are all very much the same (e.g., they all sell jerky inside), but in other ways they are all different. Pictures of the four corner stations are posted here. (I will be posting more in the future. ) You will recognize the similarities; the differences may be more subtle.

For example, in Oregon it is illegal to pump your own gas. The young attendants must handle that task. We compromised. They run the credit card and unleash the pump handing it to us. We actually fill up the tank and replace the pump handle. Filling a motorcycle tank is not like filling a car tank. The automatic shut-off generally won't work properly so one must manually monitor and shut off the flow. Getting the right level is important and may vary from bike to bike.

Near the Florida border, oranges are sold in open bins outside the station. In the Keys are vending machines in front of the station from which you can buy live bait.

In California, the Arco stations don't take credit cards! Vending machines between the pumps take currency like drink machines. Feed the bills in, enter the pump number, and the pump you selected will dispense up to the dollar amount of gas you prepaid.

In Maine, they don't just sell compressed air for your tires, they sell "Fresh Air." (Don't you just hate it when the air in your tires gets stale?) Some stations in the west and in California are unmanned. No attendant is available at all during most hours. You just use your credit card to fill up at the pump.

At one station in Montana coffee was fifty cents. At one in South Dakota it was one dollar. In California it is $1.59 but it is a "special blend."

In the plains and other less populated areas you can still get full repair service for your vehicle, but in the urban areas the closest you'll come to repairs and maintenance is a robotic car wash.

The pay at the pump machines will accept a credit card only once at any given station. The anti-fraud protection makes you go inside to pay after filing up one bike. East of the Mississippi this generally means that you must pre-pay inside for more than you expect to purchase. The attendant then inputs the prepayment which unlocks the pump. You go out and fill up. You return and they tear up the prepaid slip and run a new charge for the actual fill-up amount. Accordingly our routine became for one person to go inside and hand over the credit card for the prepaid charge to unlock the pumps. Actually when we do it they run two charges on the return trip because the system will only allow two pumps on one slip. So the third bike fill-up is on a separate slip. It is fastest if one person makes both trips finally going back inside to settle up when everyone is done filling up.

West of the Mississippi when you go in and hand them the card to pre-pay and unlock the pump they look at you like you are crazy. They don't want the credit card in advance. They tell you to just go out and fill all three bikes, then come back in and pay when you are done. The pumps are always unlocked! Well, who knew. East of the Mississippi they were all locked. Oh well.

Nashville Ink

Before we had even started on the trip there was talk of commemorating the accomplishment with a tattoo (done at Miami Ink or LA Ink, we joked). BurgMa had designed the trip logo for the safety vests, shirts, and the business cards, and a variation of this same logo seemed appropriate as the basis of the tattoo design. As the trip progressed, Czookie and Bmrpop fine tuned their tattoo design to be just the infinity sign with 4 stars. It has enough to be memorable of the trip but still had mystery.

Based on Czookie's experience with tattoos, it was decided to wait until the trip was completed before getting the new tattoos. We didn't want to have to worry about bumping them or having tender sites. On Saturday, after a hot day on the disc golf course, the group headed to Emperor Tattoo for the 4:00 appointment with ED. Czookie had met with him the day before, given him the design and set the appointments.

Bmrpop went first and had decided upon the design to be placed upon his inner left calf. At the last moment, he decided on the stars to have some shaded color and at ED's suggestion of choosing bright colors, selected a teal.

Czookie went second and had selected the backside of her upper left hip. She had the same design as Bmrpop with the same teal colored stars.

While waiting Burgma took pictures, perused all the tattoo books, browsed the art on the wall, and viewed the selection of tattoo designs hanging in display racks. Many people came and went from the Emperor Tattoo shop; it was relatively busy. After about 3 hours, we were finished and very pleased with the results.

28 Days on the road and I'm gonna make it home tonight

We did it.  We made it home safely.  Our trip was a lot of fun and we learned a lot about this big country in which we live.  We learned that every mountain range is different in shape and surface, that different areas of the country have unique smells, that local rules and regulations vastly effect the appearance of an area, and that Tennessee is truly one of the most beautiful states.

Driving home today from Paducah KY through the Land Between the Lakes and on the backroads towards Nashville, we twirled through treed lanes, past old country stores where folks waved, and past beautiful horses, happy cows and bison!

We each feel incredibly lucky to have been able to take this trip.  It has been a wonderful sharing experience.  And now, after 2 years of planning and undertaking the 4 corners trip, we have to focus on other life goals.  We thank everyone who made this trip possible and contributed to its success.

Headed Home

Since leaving Blaine we have been running hard. The days have been too long for me to report as we have been beginning as early as 5:00 am and riding as late as 10:00 or 10:30 pm.


First we headed out from Seattle to Post Falls Idaho via Redmond Washington and lake Sammich . This is definitely on the list of places to return to. From Idaho down to Missoula Montana (home to retired hippies) for lunch at the bagel shop and on to Livingston Montana just north of Yellowstone. Up before 6:00 am to tour Yellowstone and watch Old Faithful. We nearly burned out our brakes on the long winding mountain road out of the park.


Then we spent the afternoon and evening traveling through Cody Wyoming and the Bighorn National Forest. Bighorn was spectacular and varied scenery. The Devils Kitchen mesas, narrow river canyons, steep mountains, high plains with limitless views, trout streams, game and livestock. Some stretches of long straight roads, but more twisties up and down the canyons and mountain passes. Some day we all want to spend a lot more time in the Bighorn National Forest. We arrived very late and very tired in Gillette Wyoming. (Going into Yellowstone we learned from a Seattle BMW (2004 RT model) that Gillette had just been the site of the annual BMW national rally. Ever since folks have been asking us if we attended and are now on our way home.)


More varied terrain across Wyoming. Classic western topography, steep hills and then into the South Dakota for a quick tour of Mount Rushmore and the Badlands. Like the Yellowstone tour, this sightseeing in South Dakota slowed us down. We knew we would have trouble reaching Omaha for our scheduled service appointments. In fact, we could only manage to reach Sioux City Iowa (about 80 miles south of Sioux Falls South Dakota) by 10:30 pm after leaving Gillette Wyoming at about 6:30 am. We had not planned a stop in Sturgis, the motorcycle Mecca. However, Burgma's right hand end cap fell off and she pulled over to effect a repair. Since this has been a recurring problem, CZookie suggested a stop at the Sturgis Suzuki shop which as luck would have it was located within sight. As a bonus the shop also handles BMW. Eric confirmed that they did not have a replacement endcap plug in stock, but he very helpfully reinstalled the old plug with a treatment which has significantly improved the situation.

We have been hitting the No Doze pretty hard. Even at that Burgma and I had to catch a 30 minute nap in the afternoon refueling stop en route to Sioux City. Our contact Nate at Dillon Brothers Suzuki et al in Omaha had arranged our service appointment for 8:00 am. We were up by 5:30 am and on the road by 6:30 am headed for Omaha. Still with road construction, a fuel stop and rain preparations (it ultimately only misted) we did not arrive for service until 8:30 am. Dillon Brother's service department was super. They took the bikes right away and even did an oil change on the Beamer. (I had learned in a call to BMW of Omaha the prior afternoon that they were too booked up to service the RT on Friday.) They also did not complain or repremand us when Burgma and I snored soundly for two hours on the couch in the service department. Hopefully it was not offputting to the other customers.

After an excellent lunch with Nate at the IceHouse Restaurant next to Dillon Brothers we were on the road headed to Kansas City. Sleep deprivation and exhaustion were overcoming us and by mid afternoon I was signalling an emergency caffeine stop. The closest source was McDonald's which now serves iced mochas. Two of those and an iced tea washed down No Doze all around. As we were leaving a local teacher and BMW rider asked if we were headed home from the BMW national rally in Gillette. She and her husband have a collection of collectible and more recent BMWs having ridden them since 1975! Everyone in her family rides them. We explained our trip and current destination. She gave us an alternate route from St. Joseph over and down to Columbia Missouri avoiding Kansas City and associated interstate truck traffic and road construction. These were good four lane roads with little traffic and although they are not limited access, the speed limit is 65 and I believe we made much better time more safely than we could have on the interstate. We are passing many, many fields flooded from recent rains. Streams and rivers are crested beyond their banks and water is rushing at the road level even at bridges. The oncoming lane was under about 2ft of water at some points. Moreover our stops have repeatedly reminded me of my small town childhood in the Midwest. Some good things here have not changed. Now in Macon Missouri we are less than 500 miles from home. It has been a spectacular and wild journey. It will seem very strange to be home and not to have somewhere to motor to on the morrow.

Smooth Ride

Northern Idaho and Montana are BEAUTIFUL!  We rode all the way to Livingston MT.  There was a light sprinkle in the afternoon, but for the most part the ride was smooth.  How smooth you ask? Well...

About 170 miles west of Livingston, we pulled off I-90 to take a short break.  The little town we found ourselves in had one small church and one post office/general store that was closed.  It was a great little taste of rural Montana.  As we were stretching and taking pictures, Burgma set her phone on Beamerpop's right saddle bag.  

After everyone had sufficiently re-discovered normal human motion, we got back on I-90 and headed toward Livingston.  Beamerpop, leading the pack, decided to "open it up."  We were making great time at 100 mph on the straight open roads of Montana.  One gas and one grocery stop later, Beamerpop realizes that Burgma's phone is still on his saddle bag.  To our amazement, the phone had stayed put!  This incident only further backs up the family motto, "Better to be lucky than smart."  Unfortunately, it also went to feed Beamerpop's ego about his bike.  "That just goes to show how smooth a ride on a BMW is."

I am definitely looking forward to tomorrow's ride through Yellowstone and hopefully we can all keep our possessions at least safely strapped down.

Sun at our backs

We celebrated our 4th corner with dinner at a lakeside restaurant with friends of Czookie's. It was a relaxing finish to our traffic filled day. Why is everyone driving up and down I-5 on Sunday?

We took our time this morning heading out of Seattle. We slept late and then did things we had been neglecting, like laundry and bathing. We took a leisurely drive out of Seattle along Lake Sammish, enjoying the houses and longing to buy one. Then we got on I-90 with the sun to our back and we took off through the mountains. We were cool and enjoying the twisty roads in the snow capped mountains. We stopped for lunch at a place that crossed the Pacific Crest Trail (and thought of you, Lee). Then we warmed up as we came out of the mountains and stopped to strip down. The roads were straight through the rolling amber fields and Czookie and I lead with good speed. BMRPop managed to keep up. We had a Ducati join our threesome for a bit! He could keep up!! I don't think the residents in the mid Washington state can relate to their state slogan (the Evergreen State) - there are no trees in the middle of the state.


We stopped just over the border in Idaho!! Tomorrow we plan to stop just shy of Yellowstone.

Fourth and final corner

Getting a bike shop to plug back in the clutch lockout switch... $40

Getting a locksmith to jimmy the broken key out of my Givi case and make me a new one... $2

New front right turn signal assembly... $50

Trip to the Emergency Room... $300

Being the first family to complete the Four Corners Challenge... PRICELESS

WE DID IT!  We completed the Southern California Motorcycle Association Four Corners Challenge.  Two years ago when we finished our coast to coast, trip we joked about doing the Four Corners Challenge.  I seriously doubted that we ever would.  Now here we are having traveled over 8500 miles, gone through 26 states, 3 provinces, 5 time zones, and been to all four corners of the continental Untied States.  Did I mention we're not even home yet!

We only had about 430 miles to go today but it was the longest 430 miles of the whole trip.  Not only did the excitement and anxiety add to the length of the day, the traffic in/around Seattle WAS TERRIBLE!  I couldn't believe that on a Sunday afternoon there would be stand still traffic on I-5.  Even as we got 20-30 miles north of Seattle there was still bumper to bumper traffic.  Luckily motorcycles are allowed in the HOV lane.  Although, there should be a minimum speed of 5 mph over the speed limit in the HOV lane. 

Exhausted and looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow morning, I will leave it at that.

Almost there!

Yesterday we hit our third corner.  We left early to try and beat the traffic that would be heading toward San Diego.  We made great time and rolled into San Ysidro with ease.  We pulled off at an ARCO station to get gas.  This was also one of the places we needed to obtain a phone number from to prove we had made it.  ARCO stations are quite unique.  They only allow traffic to flow through the station in one direction.   Of course we end up pulling in the exit and have to do a little U-turn in the station in order to be headed the right way.  There is a "pay at the pump" option for debit cards and cash, but they don't accept credit cards.  We spend about 10 minutes trying to figure out why it won't take our credit cards or our cash (bills don't tend to stay crisp in sweaty pockets).  Beamerpop finally went inside to see if he could pay with his credit card.  The cashier, thinking it was a debit card, instructed him to use it out at the pump.  We are very confused at this point and continue to try and shove 1s 5s 10s and 20s into the cash slot.  A gentleman walking into the convenience store yells to us, "It's broke.  Only takes cash!"  Burgma yells back, "Can we pay inside with cash?"   "Yeah they'll take your cash.  This is still America, isn't it?"  Finally, after a few more confusing interactions with the cashier inside we are able to get gas.  Much more importantly, we are able to get our receipts to include in our four corners packet.  The last thing we need from this ever confusing ARCO station now, is their phone number.  In the past, the gas station has had a business card they can give us with the number on it.  This time however, the cashier pulls out his personal cell phone looks through it for a while and then writes a number down for me on scrap receipt.  Who knows if it's actually the number to the gas station and at this point I don't care.

We had a long ride through San Diego, Los Angeles, and on into the never ending farm land of northern California.  We drove through fields and fields of tomatoes, onions, grapes, almonds, oranges and lemons.  Trucks and trucks of tomatoes were on the road.  Every now and then, we would see patches of tomatoes that had spilled over on to the shoulder.  I would hold my breath as we passed the trucks.  The last thing we needed at this point was to get injured by a tomato that decided to jump ship.

At lunch we looked at the map and decided to try to make it to Santa Nella.  Not knowing anything about Santa Nella, we crossed our fingers in hopes of a meal and a decent bed.  We were pleasantly surprised with a great Danish restaurant called Andersen's.  Beamerpop and I, of course, had to have split pea soup.  

With a goodnight's sleep under our belts we arose early this morning and made it to Sacramento for breakfast.  Burgma spotted a donut shop that only took two U-turns to get to.  It was well worth it!  This donut shop is THE hang-out breakfast place for the Retired Men's Club.  As we sat with our coffee and donuts, we noticed that the other patrons seem to just help themselves.  They get up, go behind the counter, pour themselves a refill, and bring the creamer to their table.  Everyone was very friendly.  They gave us a short scenic route to get back on the highway that was a great break from the interstate.

Breakfast behind us we rode on making it out of California (FINALLY!) and into Oregon.  The scenery change was refreshing, not to mention the cooler temperature.  Oregon is BEAUTIFUL!  It definitely made the we-must-come-back list.  We rode up and over mountains covered in evergreens.  The curvy roads were a blast all the way to Salem, where we decided to stay for the night.  That now puts us only 330 miles away from Blaine!  It's hard to believe that in the course of three days we will have hit our third and fourth corner.

FINALLY ON THE ROAD AGAIN

Leaving early this morning, we finally made it out of the movie Groundhogs Day...uh I mean Richfield, UT.  Starting off before the sun rose, Burgma and I were bundled up (including a few instant heat packets put in our jackets and gloves).  By 9am we had to stop and strip down to day-desert riding wear.  We made excellent time and landed in San Bernardino for the night.  Although, over lunch in Vegas, we discussed spending the rest of the trip "rehydrating" in the casino.  Alas we push on.

Hills stayed on the horizon for the whole day teasing us with cool elevation.  It's amazing what a temperature difference there is a few thousand feet up.  It was a nice relief from the dreadful heat of the desert valleys.   Just to keep you updated on our bug observations, check out this GIANT beetle we saw.  He really liked BB and was making circles around her at the gas station.

And let us not forget my favorite moment of the day.  Riding through California, I once again got to observe the cars/people that were around us since the traffic had picked up.  A middle-aged women in a white Ford Focus with a license plate frame that read "I Love Bowling," looked at me and BB and then shook her head as she passed.  Now, a shake of the head can mean a lot of different things.  I pondered her intention.  Did this gesture mean she was...

*Disgusted? 

Motorcycles are far too dangerous.  Why would anyone endanger their own life like that?  Everyone should be riding safe, American made, cars that proudly state your favorite hobby on the license plate.

*Amazed?

Wow those motorcyclist rode all the way from Tennessee and Louisiana.  How impressive to have such dedication and endurance.

or perhaps she was...

*Disappointed.

Look at that measly DL 650.  You know that trip would take half the time on a Busa!

Footnotes

DL 650--Suzuki V-Strom DL 650cc (my bike aka BB) 

Busa--nickname for the Suzuki GSXR 1300cc Hayabusa (186mph top end speed)

Resting in Richfield

We tried to leave this morning. After a trip to the ER (in a taxi) to get a shot for nausea and a prescription for an antibiotic, and 2 days of rest and rehydration (Czookie has slept for 2 days and nights), we thought we might be ready to get on the road. We walked down to the local cafe for breakfast to bolster Czookie's strength (her first real meal or outing in 2 days) and then returned to the hotel to pack up the bikes and head out of town. We made it 1 mile to the gas station; we then sat and rested for about 30 minutes before Czookie said she really couldn't go any further.

So BMRPop called the Days Inn and they took us back in, and even gave us back "our room" which was freshly cleaned. Yep, we are still in Richfield, UT, our home away from home.

BMRPop and I have gotten to know the town fairly well. It sits at about 5300 feet above sea level, was founded by the Mormons in 1864 and currently has a population of about 7000. Our hotel sits on Main St across from a lovely park which is a block square and has a stage area and many picnic tables and benches under trees. It is BMRPop's new office as he darts over there to make/take phone calls.



















The town has 2 traffic lights and then a safety system for crossing at other intersections. At the lamp post is a basket with bright orange flags. You are to carry a flag when you want to cross the street and all the traffic stops for you; on the other side you place the flag in the basket.

















Richfield has about 5 eating establishments, outside of 2 chain restaurants by
the interstate (an Arby's and a Subway). One establishment we have visited often is the Little Wonder Cafe, a little place on Main St with wood paneling and about 6 booths and 2 tables. Most of the booths sport a little sign announcing someone famous sat there. Apparently, this town is a well known location for moviemaking. Today, Czookie ventured out for a meal (breakfast, actually) and we sat at Wilford Brimley's booth. There are also signs for Stephen King and Tommy Lee Jones. Another interesting thing is that the eating places have this "natural salt" on the table, mined in Utah. It is supposed to be a sweet salt and is unprocessed.

We enjoy musing around local groceries as they really give you the flavor of a town. The local Albertson's is interesting. Across from the beer aisle is all the hunting/camping equipment --gun cases, etc. (Does this sound dangerous?) We also like to look at local beers, as some are quite unusual.

























For lunch today, we walked (trying to build up Czookie's stamina) down to the local health food store (on Main St.) and after ordering at the counter in the back, we ate at one of two tables in the front window watching the locals drive by or conduct business in the store.


We are very hopeful we will leave early tomorrow morning.


HAPPY BELATED BIRTHDAY TO JULIA!!!

THANK YOU for supporting the Long Road Home House

Guess What?  I checked the Long Road Home house on the Make It Right site and we are over 1500 dollars!  Many thanks to all of you have contributed to this cause to rebuild the ninth ward in New Orleans in an environmentally friendly and affordable way. 

We have been handing out the business cards (with links to our trip blog) and explaining the Make It Right mission to fellow travelers and to townsfolk everywhere we stop.   

And Jay --we are on the road so please contact us again!!!  Or give us a way to contact you.  

We are taking a rest day in Utah to allow Czookie to recover from severe dehydration.  Our next day of riding will be through extreme heat as we head towards southern California via Las Vegas.

Rocky Mountain High

Wow! Heading out of Denver on Sunday morning was fantastic. The Rockies were in the skyline and we were going to be riding through them!! As we started up the mountains, we could see some of the peaks had snow on them. Fortunately we all had our warm gear on which had been uncomfortably hot while leaving Denver but now felt just right! The roads were in fairly rough shape. Some had been scraped and had grooves in them but we maintained our speed as we continued up the winding roads and through the numerous tunnels. The Continental Divide at Loveland Pass went by almost unnoticed as we tunneled below it! What a fabulous ride past the numerous ski resorts. BurgMa and BeamerPop decided that summers in Vail could be sweet!! In fact, why not a summer motorcycle shop and campground. There were lots of motorcycle riders on these roads. The Rockies are on the list of things to come back to. A fabulous ride was through Glenwood Canyon with the curving road and green trees and steep rock walls. The Colorado River ran alongside us and there were plenty of whitewater rafters and kayakers enjoying their ride as well.

























And then we left the Rockies and entered the heat of the desert in western Colorado and eastern Utah. Long straight roads with nothing to look at. The place is void of any vegetation. Sometimes we were the only people on the road. We stopped for lunch in a small town; our choices were the little counter at the tiniest grocery, or the dark pizza bar without windows.After pizza and several large glasses of liquid, we headed back out into the bright sun and convection oven heat. We wondered what the townspeople do for employment.


Then came the beauty of Utah, the large buttes in multicolors of dark red, grey, beige and white. They were so large they made us seem insignificant. The sun highlighted their rough edges and I felt as if we were riding in a dried up ocean bed. We were grateful for the small clouds that occasionally blocked the direct heat of the sun and allowed us to look more clearly at the magnificent rock structures we were riding through.



















As we got closer to our destination for the night (Richfield, UT) we gained altitude and the air became cooler. We checked into the hotel, walked down to the grocery and bought a light dinner to bring back to the room.


At some point in the night Czookie became ill with either a bug or severe dehydration. We are taking a rest day until she feels strong enough to continue. The extra day may not be a bad thing as a check on the weather in Barstow and southern california reveals flash flooding and mudslides.

Garanoque Canada to Michigan City, Michigan to Omaha, Nebraska

We have been doing some long days with early departure from the hotels and late evening arrivals. We pushed through Canada covering 3 provinces in one day, New Brunswick, Quebec and Ontario. I'd say that Montreal could learn from Toronto about how to handle traffic. Toronto was the easiest city to navigate with a through lane quickly carrying us from one end of town to the other. And Toronto goes on and on. Ontario turned out to be less than scenic. Czookie complained that New Brunswick smelled of paper factory, and Quebec smelled of manure. However, Toronto smelled like licorice! Unfortunately the ride through Ontario was not very scenic. It was flat and hot.


We arrived at the Port Huron customs area about midday. Czookie proceeded first through customs. As I was waiting behind the big yellow line for my turn I used the autocomm to aks BMRPop if I needed to declare the dried fruit snacks I had purchased in Ontario. He replied" I guess you just did.", implying of course that our walkie talkie communication was being monitored. Unlike our entry into Canada, the US agent motioned for all of us to move up to the customs booth together. Czookie was asked if she knew her tag number. Because we have to write our tag number on our gas receipts for the 4 corners challenge, Czookie had it memorized. The agent asked if it was Ontario or Michigan. Czookie volunteered it was Louisiana. The agent then asked Carolyn how we all knew each other. Czookie replied that we were her parents (to which the agent replied "I'm sorry."---just kidding.) The agent then collected Burgma's and BmrPop's passports and Czookie's driver's license. And then the agent returned our papers to us and waved us through. Can you believe Czookie crossed into Canada with just showing her birth certificate and returned with just presenting her driver's license? We were surprised!


We had a leisurely lunch and then made our way towards Chicago, stopping for the night in Michigan City.


The next morning we rose early and headed out fearful we would be caught in the Chicago rush hour. Surprisingly we zoomed through Indiana and through Chicago without much trouble. Not much later and we were headed across Iowa headed toward Omaha Nebraska. Iowa is pretty with rolling hills and green farmlands. We could see the results of the heavy rains in Iowa as all the rivers and lakes were very full. We met a few storms, waiting them out in the nice rest area which offer a travel kiosk of current weather and historical information about the area. One of the features of the weather information was the information about the winds. We could expect 15 mph winds around Des Moines. Not something to look forward to. Interestingly we saw only a handful of windmills. I do believe our energy problems could be solved all by utilizing Iowa winds! We kept trying to dodge the rain and after being caught in a downpour we eventually outran the rain. With Czookie leading, we could pretty much outrun anything.


We made it to Omaha with time to visit the Suzuki place just as they were closing. We found a hotel within walking distance to the dealer, and BMRPop went to scout out the BMW dealer. Next morning Czookie went to the Suzuki service area first thing while Burgma went with BMRPop to the BMW dealer to drop off the BMR, and then together they rode the Burgman to the Suzuki dealer. By the time we got there, Czookie had befriended all the staff, especially a parts person who chatted her up for most of the morning we were there. The good news is that they said our tires should last until we come through on our way home from Seattle. And they ordered the new light replacement for BB which will be ready on our next pass through as well. The duct tape repair is holding well so far. They fixed the loose side vent on the Burgman and confirmed that the duct tape on the front cowling is holding. After the Suzuki bikes were ready we proceeded to rest at the hotel. BurgMa found a laundromat and did laundry. Later we picked up the BMW and then rode to Drover's, a loal older restaurant, for a fine steak dinner. YUM!


Next morning we donned our rainsuits and putzed around in the brakfast area waiting for severe storms to pass. With just light rains remaining, we headed out across Nebraska. Nebraska was hot and windy, and very flat. It seemed like forever to get through it. The eastern part of the state has farmland but the western part is drylooking with sand dunes and little farming. At one point we came across a HUGE bridge/archlike structure spanning over all lanes of the interstate apparently commemorating a fort. You could stop and go in it for a fee (do I need to say here that we only stop for gas and food?). But I remember thinking as we drove under it, what on earth could you possibly see from that bridge that you can't just see now --yes, Nebraska is that flat.

Oh the ways you find to amuse yourself.

We made it to Omaha and have gone over 5000 miles!  It's time to get our bikes serviced again not to mention a much needed day of rest for us.  As for our riding through middle america, there is not a whole lot to say.  Going through a state like Iowa (miles and miles of flat corn fields), there are really only a few things to keep us entertained.  The wind is one element of entertainment.  The crosswinds are brutal and will definitely keep you on your toes.  BB is so tall and light that I really get blown around by the wind.  Burgma and I both thought that Iowa should line the interstate with windmills and put some of that wind to good use!

 

Another source for entertainment on the road is observing all the different people and cars that you pass (or pass us depending on who is leading the group).  We have seen a lot of bumper stickers, a lot of cool bikes, and a lot of interesting people. 

 Needless to say we tend to attract attention on the road.  Three motorcycles, bright green vests, and out-of-state license plates tend to get a few looks.  There was the one guy in the pick-up truck that as he passed screamed out the window, "RIDE ON!"  There was the little red station wagon with the 3 or 4 year-old-boy who nearly leapt out of his car seat to wave at us.  There was the guy in Canada that tried to talk to mom while we were stuck in traffic.  Too bad we wear ear plugs, helmets, and don't speak french.  My favorite however was the old VW van filled with 13-14 year-old boys.  As we passed, they were waving and giving us the "wheelie" sign (holding their arms out as if they were riding a motorcycle and lifting them up in the air).  If I was to do a wheelie with all my stuff weighing down the back of the bike, I don't think I would ever get the front tire back on the ground!

 

The last source of entertainment/amusement is to observe all the bugs.  

Some of them you know when the hit you.  Even with a padded jacket on you can feel them.  Some of them you are really glad they hit the windshield and not you.  When we stop, we all check out our windshields and helmets to see if we can identify the bugs.  We also compare bug splatter patterns and colors.  Yup, that's what it has come down to here in Iowa and Nebraska.

A list of "firsts"

Well so far on this trip I have had a lot of "firsts." First time I have ever been to NH, CT, ME and Canada; first time I have ever eaten a lobster; and first time I have dropped my bike.

Yes, I have dropped Burgma's and Beamerpop's bikes, but this was the first time I dropped my OWN bike. Since my bike is "customized" (aka lowered), the kickstand is longer than normal. This requires very strategic parking. If you park on a slant, you have to make sure that kickstand has enough room to actually hold the bike. Otherwise, not enough weight will be on the kickstand and the bike stands straight up on both wheels.

I had noticed that Burgma's rain cover was waving in the wind like a flag. The flag seemed to get larger and larger as we rode. I signaled the team to pull over so we could tuck her cover back in. We had pulled off the interstate and on to the side of an exit road. Thinking more about Burgma's cover and not about my parking, I put the kickstand down but not on a big enough slant to do any good. As I started to get off the bike, she began to tip to the opposite side (the side without the kickstand). I felt BB starting to fall but I had already started my dismount and wasn't in a position to save it. The good news is there was no mechanical damage. The cover to the turn signal broke and the end of my handle bar is a little bent.

But nothing a little heavy duty tape won't fix.

Without Internet...missed blogging

As you may have noticed, we have been without internet service for a few days.
Below are entries to catch you up:

Monday
On Monday morning BMRPop and BurgMa headed to the Suzuki dealer in Bangor to get oil changes while Czookie headed to a locksmith to fix the broken off key in her GIVI case. Lucky for her, the locksmith had a variety of nice customers to keep her entertained while she waited for the shop to open. She arrived at the Suzuki dealer just as the Burgman was getting out of the service bay, and the dealer was able to promptly give the Wee strom an oil change. A service unique to this dealer is the "shampoo and blow dry" each bike gets after service. We were amused by the leaf blower they use to dry the bikes!



















It was also amusing to us that country music is soooo popular here in Bangor. Our hotel lobby had it playing as did the motorcycle place. In fact, the parts person was thrilled we were from Nashville and wanted to know how many cowboy boots and hats we each owned, and did we know any country music stars.

We discussed our choices for routes to Madawaska with the Suzuki sales and service persons. Our mapping had us using Rt 1, as bloggers had warned of the logging trucks on Rt 11. However the saleperson said Rt 11 would be fine ad even checked with a friend who had driven it recently. We were guaranteed to see 6 - 12 moose!! We were very excited.
Route 11 was fantastic. In fact, they should close that road to everything but motorcycles; it was that much fun!! Yes, there were numerous timberloaded trucks but most were headed in the opposite direction and, for the most part, the road was in fairly good shape. We climbed up mountains and enjoyed the vistas, and then whooped as we roller coastered down the hills, making our stomachs tumble. A lot of the times we were the only travellers on the road, temporarily picking up a local car or two as would pass through a quaint little town with its token white church building. Disappointingly we only saw one moose; it was wading in a marshy area and hardly visible form the road. From Rt 11 we took Rt 1 from Fort Kent (the other terminus of Rt 1) into Madawaska. It curves right along the St. John's River with picturesque green hills of Canada on the other side. We all cheered and pumped our fists in the air as we entered Madawaska, and immediately set to completing our obligatory picture taking and other 4 corner's tasks.
Woohoo! Corner number two is done!


















For dinner we sampled some local fare (pontine and ployes), and retired early, set on leaving super early the next morning to cross the Canada border --looking for more moose!

Tuesday
Leaving Madawaska Tuesday morning we had some time to make up. After a quick breakfast at Martin's, we were on the road and crossed the narrow bridge into Canada border by 7:10. BMRPop was first and while remaining on his bike and with his helmet still on, spent a few minutes talking to the customs agent. She then waved him on. I followed. The customs agent took my passport and then asked if "I had the same story as him", pointing at BMRPop who was parked a few yards ahead of me. Wow --was this a trick question? I had no idea what BMRPop had said. Should I say "yes", or should I ask "what exactly did the BMRPop tell you?" I decided to keep it simple and just say yes. The agent handed back my passport and waved me through. We heard from Czookie later that the agent had waved her through with just a showing of her birth certificate.
A quick tour of Edmundston and we were hunting for Canada Rt 2 and I was trying to remember my French lessons from 40 years ago. Realizing that we had taken a wrong turn, Czookie and I did a Uturn while BMRPop took a scenic ride around the block. Now we were out of sight of each other, and dependent upon the AutoComm system to reconnect us. A quick exchange of landmarks and we were back in synch. Edmundston is a quaint and scenic village but the papermill smell is offputting.
The trip on Rt 2 was very scenic with light to moderate traffic and a lot of construction. This is snow mobile and ATV country. There were trails with rest areas parallel to Rt 2 and a lot of snowmobile and ATV crossing signs. There were also a plethora of Moose Crossing signs but at days end we had not seen a single moose.
Just as we approached the Rt20 (the Interprovince road to Quebec City and Montreal, the rain started, Czookie lead nearly all day and she wisely pulled off into a Tim Horton's, the Canadian equivalent of Starbucks. We broke out the rain gear and everyone was warm and dry through 40 minutes of moderate rain. Communication with people in the provinces of New Brunswick and Quebec is in French which I forbade BMRPop from speaking as his accent is so poor. At our next stop we were able to buy gas, coffee and some lunch without much trouble, just alot of smiling and Oui, Oui, Merci, Merci. BMRPop took a picture of one of the several Spyders we saw on the road.


















We called it quits when we reached Gananoque, a
resort town on the St. Lawrence. A one mile walk to a leisurely dinner (with a pitcher of beer) on a terrace overlooking the river was a great end to a long day. The local weathr report called for rain for the next day. The GPS indicates 1800+ km to Omaha - that means 2 whole days of 550 miles each to make our service appts on Friday.

Crazy Caution Signs

This is out of order but I had to share it. On the Blue Ridge Parkway we saw two of these signs warning motorcyclists of "spiral curves." Well, we were warned.

Bangor Maine on Schedule

We stopped a little north of Hartford, Connecticut last night. Despite stopping late, we got off early this morning. However, we had some maintenance issues. Burgma and I both needed oil, she needed to top off her tire pressure and we had an improvised cowling repair.
The rest of the day was spectacular. By early afternoon we had been in five states. Connecticut, through Massachusetts to Vermont,  on to New Hampshire and then on to Maine. We took Routes 9 and 4 through Vermont and New Hamphire. This back way avoided Boston and its environs. Although a little longer it was so nice to be off the interstates. There was little traffic, mostly Sunday drivers and a lot of local bikers out for rides. None of these states require helmets and most riders do not wear them.
We lunched in Concord. Carolyn was asked about her V-Strom by an SV 650 rider who is considering a change to the Strom. Of course she explained why it is the perfect all round bike.
Traffic was heavy as we got on the interstate in Portsmouth. Apparently everyone on the lower East Coast went to Maine for the 4th of July weekend. There were three and four lanes on I-95 southbound (the Maine Turnpike) competely packed and moving at a crawl. Traffic northbound was heavy until we made our way past Portland. At that point we nearly had the road to ourselves. Even the interstate here is designated scenic. Lots of evergreens, gentle hills, rivers emptying into coastal waters. With minimal road construction and light traffic we made good time and enjoyed the ride into Bangor. We were checked into the motel by 5:00 pm and headed out to Captain Nick's for a lobster dinner in a real railroad car.
With luck we will complete our second corner tomorrow and head into Canada. (Already if we went just a few miles due east we would be in Canada and in a time zone an hour ahead of eastern time!)

Back On The Road

We were able to get my bike looked at this morning at Twigg's Motorcycle Shop in Hagerstown MD.  The were EXTREMELY helpful.  Apparently, my clutch lockout switch had come loose.  Simple fix which is good but a little frustrating that something so simply and easily fixed held us up.  

Although we were delayed getting back on the road this morning, it actually ended up helping us out weather wise.  We were able to make it all the way to Hartford, CT traveling just behind one storm and just in front of another.  It ended up a nice cool overcast day of riding.  This section of road was what I was most excited about.  I have driven the a lot of the southeast and been to the west coast a few times, but the northeast however is one place I haven't traveled a lot.  Interstate 81 through MD, PA, NY, and CT is beautiful (and yes we went through all four of those states today).  It doesn't feel like the boring highways we had been on.  It was curvy and mostly through the rural mountains.  

We have continued to use some of our hand signals we created on our last trip.  Today we used the deer sign (all five fingers spread holding your thumb next to your helmet like an antler) quite often.  Not only did we used it for seeing the "Caution Deer" signs but we also used it for the numerous deceased deer we saw (and smelled) on the side of the road.

Last but certainly not least for all you Office fans out there, we did drive through Scranton, PA!  The theme song was playing in my head as we passed the city.

The Missing Days

July 2nd took us from Edgewater Florida to Charlotte North Carolina.  As CZookie said earlier we stayed with her friends whose hospitality was wonderful.  Lots of stories and laughter.  Effective mileage that day was 512 miles with no rain.  As we rode up I-95 toward Jacksonville I could not help but feel like we had been in Florida for a long time.  We had been in Florida almost all day on Sunday, after Monday night in Key West, a whole day Tuesday (slowed by so much rain) and now it was now the fourth day, still in Florida.  Despite hitting Jacksonville at the morning rush hour we moved quickly and easily around the city on I-295.  The Georgia coast is short; there was a lot of road construction and that marshland smell.  Still we made good time.  CZookie lead all the way in to Charlotte and I struggled to keep up since I enjoy high speeds only when the roads are good, the weather is good and the traffic is light.  Only the weather cooperated consistently on Wednesday.  By lunch time it was clear we would make it to her friend's home in good time so it was easy to enjoy the ride even if it was on the highways: I-95 to I-26 to I-77.  Ewen McGregor says that his travel photos are all pictures of his bike at various locals.  So here is my current favorite picture of my bike at the Best Western in Edgewater Florida.  We were very lucky CZookie found this place when she did, just after a terrible storm and just before the next one hit.  

July 3rd from Charlotte to Hagerstown was 430 miles effectively.  It was a great riding day.  A little slower since I led all day.  On the buffet theory of traveling, this trip the first pass through the line.  We will come back one day to enjoy a larger helping of the best places.  One certainly worth a long return visit is the Blue Ridge Parkway.  It was beautiful and great to ride.  Very little traffic, slow speeds and lots of twisties.  We road it from Buena Vista to Vesuvius.  The access roads were full of the narrowest switchbacks steeply sloping up hill and down.  This is no interstate!  Hagerstown presented itself in plenty of time to stop check in and hunt for dinner until we got separated on the drive into town.  Communication by cell phone soon revealed that CZookie was the roadside and BB was refusing to restart.  Her entry tells the rest.  We are now focused on getting BB repaired.  Until then, we are here in Hagerstown.  Hope everyone is having a safe and fun Fourth of July.    

(By the way, the picture on June 29th blog entry was the automatic truck windshield washer at the Fort Drum Service Plaza on the Florida Turnpike.  You just pull up and a sensor turns on the spray.  We did not try it, but if the bikes would trigger the sensor I am sure we could have washed them easily!)      

The good, the bad, the ugly

The good news is we had a great day yesterday riding through VA.  We couldn't resist taking a short detour off of 81 to ride the Blue Ridge Parkway.  It was such a nice break from the highway riding we had been doing.  The roads were curvy and some sections really tested your motorcycle skills.  The cooler temperature and awesome scenery seemed to really boost everyone's afternoon mood.  Although we did disturb a snake who was sunning himself in the road.  Beamerpop, who was leading, scared him enough that he coiled back.  As I passed, riding second, I was a little afraid he might strike me or the bike.  Fortunately everyone, including the snake, was unharmed.   

The bad news is BB (my V-Strom also known as the WEEEE-Strom) won't start.  Beamerpop and I fiddled around checking the fuses, the battery, etc. and couldn't solve the problem.  After doing some research on the internet we discovered that other people have had similar problems with the V-Strom.  The bike will be fine one minute and then the next you know you can't start her back up.  Apparently it's a bad starter relay.  One piece of advice was to file the relay connectors.  This has been proven to solve the problem.  After a few minutes of trying to find where my starter relay was we discovered that it's completely encased.  We will have to purchase a whole new started relay.  This leads us to the ugly news.

We can't purchase a starter relay or even have the bike looked at until tomorrow.  Apparently, everyone is too busy celebrating their independence from the British to bother with working!  Thank goodness the tow trucks weren't on vacation.  It will be nice to take a rest though.  I hope we can make up the mileage later on.  Send good mechanical and weather energy our way!  

We wanted to say a BIG THANK YOU to our Charlotte crowd.  I can't tell you how nice it was to eat a home cooked meal and hangout with friends.  THANK YOU!

Also... We made the local Nashville TN paper.  Check it out.

http:..www.tennessean.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=2008807040316

We are hoping this means wider publicity for Make It Right NOLA and possibly more donations to the Long Road Home house!

First Day and counting

We did really well today. Got up early, packed up quickly (for us), ate a quick breakfast and were on the road by 7:30 am. Heading out of the Keys was great. The sky was clear, the traffic was minimal and the temperature was pleasant. We made excellent time and were in Miami before we knew it. A quick fill again of the gas tanks and we got on the Florida Turnpike. We had learned it was easier for one of us to struggle with toll money, so BMRPop volunteered to always pay for all of us. At the first toll we were surprised by a random act of kindness. The car in front of us paid for all three of us!! After we got through the gate, I caught up with the car and waved my thanks. Czookie also waved as she passed. We later learned from BMRPop that we had waved to the wrong car. Well, that explains the odd stares from the folks in the car!!

The Florida turnpike was an excellent way to go. We had great weather, and there was less traffic than the parallel I-95. After our break for lunch and gas in Ft. Pierce we headed north on I-95 towards Daytona Beach. And then the rains came. At first they were refreshing and we dried in between downpours. But then the rains turned into full fledged thunderstorms with dark skies, winds and lightning. After about 1/2 hour wait under an overpass, we ventured out again only to be caught a second time in a horrible storm. We were so wet (and cold) that we declared it a full day, although we were short of our mileage goal. It was hard to remember that earlier in the day we had actually anticipated surpassing our goal and trying to get to Jacksonville. Oh well.

The hotel room is decorated with wet clothes, gloves and jackets everywhere. I hope we are dry by morning!!

One corner down three more to go.

We rolled into the Keys at about noon EST today.  It was a nice day with a few short showers that cooled us off.  We spent the afternoon roaming around the island seeing all Key West has to offer.  Our first stop was of course lunch!  When on an island, one must eat seafood.  When in Key West, one must eat Key Lime Pie!  After a satisfying meal we walked by Ernest Hemingway's house, the Pan American World Airways first office, and The Little White House.  Apparently, Harry Truman spent more time here in Key West during his presidency than any other president.  I probably would too! 

One of the rules of the SCMA Four Corners Challenge is that you must get a picture of your bike at an official site in the city (landmark, police station, post office, etc.).  We first wanted to get a picture of our bikes at the Southernmost Point monument.  However, the monument is on a sidewalk and was swarmed with people.  We thought it best not to disturb the natural order of things by riding into the crowd.  Our second spot was the post office.  The sign for the post office also is on a sidewalk, however people don't tend to swarm the post office sign.  We got a few nice shots and mailed off our paper work.

When we checked into our hotel this afternoon, Burgma and I were asked where we were coming from.  We explained our trip and our intention to help New Orleans to the concierge.  Immediately, he went off on a rant about how important it is to help New Orleans.  Having been a bartender there for numerous Mardi Gras celebrations, he has seen NOLA before and after.   He also told us he helped create the famous Hand Grenade drink at Tropical Isle bar on Bourbon Street!  

I was rejuvenated by his passion not to mention the ride into the Keys.  Riding in over miles and miles of bridges reminded me of the drive from Baton Rouge, LA to New Orleans.  The humid ocean wind and the ocean horizon on both sides brought back into focus one of the reasons we are doing this trip-to Make It Right.  We are trying to spread the word that New Orleans still needs help.  The Make It Right Project is headed up by Brad Pitt and Global Green to try to rebuild New Orleans.  The project is to build better houses for both the 9th ward and the environment.  The energy efficient houses not only are good for the environment but they are more cost effective for the residents.  This trip is our way of trying to bring New Orleans back into the minds of the American citizens.  You can help us by spreading the word about our trip, The Make It Right Project, and/or making a financial donation to our Team House The Long Road Home (http://www.makeitrightnola.org/mir_SUB.php?section=donations&page=team&range=4). 

Thank You to all of you who have already helped us to Make It Right!

--Czookie